Archive for Thursday’s Tutorials

How to Make “Glass” Embellishments

I found an awesome tutorial for today. As you will see, you do not have to limit yourself to just making “glass” flowers. Laura used this technique to make a great little butterfly as well. This video inspires me to take a break just to make some of these. Looks like fun!

Photo Weaving

I was reading a number of tips and tricks for Scrapbooking and card making and found one that I thought was really interesting and somewhat unique.

Did you know that you can create a 3-dimensional look by weaving your photos. Yes, I did say weaving, you know just like you used to do in kindergarten with the strips of coloered paper. OK, maybe not exactly like but in general, the same type of concept.

Here are the materials and/or tools you need to use this technique:

  • Two copies of the photo or image.
  • Paper cutter, scissors or Exacto knife.
  • Ruler and straightedge.
  • Chalk or soft lead pencil for marking

Here are the steps to create a weaved photo:

Start with 2 copies of the same picture. You will will be cutting each picture into strips. One will be cut into horizontal strips and the other will be cut into vertical strips.

  1. On the backside of the first photo, draw evenly spaced vertical lines.
  2. Cut along these lines.
  3. On the other photograph draw evenly spaced horizontal lines.
  4. Cut along these lines.
  5. Then weave alternating horizontal and vertical strips and put the image or photo back together.

Start your weaving from the center of the image or photo and work outwards. This will keep the shape of the image or photo’s integrity intact.

I typically ensure that my photos are as close to exactly the same size as possible. I mark off where I am going to cut on the backside of each copy using a soft leaded pencil and I barely leave a mark. I like to use evenly (and even measured) distances between the lines that I draw. Sometimes, I am not so exact and just use the markings on my paper cutter.

After cutting the photos into the strips I weave the horizontal strips with the vertical strips to complete my creation. I tap the strips into place using my fingernail. Once all the pieces are in, I flip over my weaving and tighten the strips by tapping them all again from top to bottom and then from left to right. I do occasionally have to adjust a strip or two to make the image look right.

If your edges don’t quite line up exactly after weaving your photo, trim each side using a paper cutter to get a crisp and clean look.

Once I have the weaved image, I glue it down on some sort of matting. This also helps to keep the weaving from coming undone. Be sure to adhere the strips that come out from the top side too if you have only glued down backside around the edges.

Another technique that I found unique is to print your image on two different colors of paper. It give the image a dramatic effect once they are weaved together.

This process is awesome on scrapbook pages and handmade cards. Placing your weaved image or photo onto an artsy styled background can present an abstract appearance. Placing it onto a solid background creates a clean and simple image or photo that is already naturally highlighted by the technique itself.

The Crochet Cable Creates A Classic Look

Completed Cable Stitch

Cabling can be be found in many patterns or you can simply add it in if you want to add an extra feature to a pattern. It can be used for embellishing on blankets, sweaters, scarves, hats and pretty much anything you desire. Cables can be made as wide or as narrow as you want and you can add several different cables to any one project. Like any type of stitch it is also important to gauge to make sure you are using the correct size stitch for your project. Realistically, is all a matter of preference. The crochet cable stitch is a classic look and can be used on any project in any number of applications.

Double Stitich

Double Stitch

Chain Stitch

Crochet cables are a little more difficult stitch than the crochet chain stitch but they do create a classic look. Once you have perfected, or at least become comfortable with the basic crochet chain stitch and a double stitch you will have the skills

needed to be able to perform a crochet cable. You should practice and master all the basic stitches before trying the cable.

Cable Stitch

To create a cable,  start with a foundation chain to start the cable. The cable pattern actually uses a five row pattern that is repeated.

Use the longer double stitch to crochet the first row. You will want to be familiar with the double stitch’s multiple wraps and have mastered how to pull it through. Also remember when using the double stitch you will want to keep your yarn tension loose. If you do not, there will be spaces in your finished pattern.

The second row uses the double cross stitch differently. Do the stitch as you normally would and then do the double crochet stitch through the different stitch posts.

I realize that this can be somewhat confusing and if you are new to crochet it can be overwhelming when learning all of the crochet terms and jargon. You can always do additional research and if you need detailed directions or pictures on how to crochet (and be able to apply the cable stitch), try Learn How To Crochet. There are also many online pictures and videos that can be used to learn how to crochet and use the different stitches.

If you are a fellow crochet nut and would like to contribute to CCAS, please let us know. We would love to be able to share your knowledge with our readers in our crochet category. You can contact us using the navigation bar under the site header.

How to Cross Stitch with Hand Dyed Floss

Should you browse pictures of finished cross stitch patterns about the web, no doubt you have seen the stunning images of projects stitched with hand dyed floss. Because from the variety within the coloring from the floss, this can cross stitch projects some incredible and unexpected outcomes.

Hand dyed floss is produced just as the name implies – it’s dyed by hand.  Because of this, there are variations in the quantity of color throughout the thread. Some variations may be subtle, while some may be a large contrast.  Some also have a lot more than 1 color per thread, which with the right cross stitch patterns, will create incredible outcomes.

When stitching with these beautiful hand dyed cross stitch fibers, there’s an essential note that should be produced. Many stitchers typically will make all of their stitches going 1 way at one time, after which return to finish their crosses.  With hand dyed thread, stitching in this manner will give an effect that seems ‘muddied’.  Much much more desirable final results may be achieved by finishing every“X” as you go.  Stitch both legs at once and then move onto the next“X”.  This helps keep the range in the shade of thread all within the same stitch.

There’s one more note that ought to be made about stitching with hand dyed threads.  Many stitchers use a “loop” technique to lessen the amount of excess thread about the back.  This must not be done when stitching with hand dyed threads.  The reason is simply because when the thread is folded over to make the loop, various parts of the colour variance will be next to each and every other.  This will similarly generate a mixing from the colors in an undesirable way.

A single final note about hand dyed floss is the colorfastness.  Most hand dyed threads aren’t colorfast, so it is not recommended to wash your stitching project when you’re completed stitching.  The result will probably be that the color from the floss will bleed onto your fabric and other floss and your stitching task could be ruined.

By following these three suggestions, you too can enjoy stitching with these stunning hand dyed cross stitch fibers.  They truly can add additional pizzazz to your stitching task.

Handmade Recycled Flowers

This fun tutorial is provided by Avina at weScrap!

My LSS gives these lovely brown paper bags when we shop there. I’ve always been conscious of the waste that goes into packaging and try to make use of everything I get including the paper bag. Here’s how to make them!

First I take off the handle.

Then I apply a blob of glue to the paper bag.

Next I wind the handle around that blob of glue and work the handle into a circle.

Then you’re done! Just cut out and stick to your projects! It even looks a bit like a Prima flower!!

Here is are some of the flowers on a layout:

Here is a sample that was done on a card by Colleen Lovette:

*Colleen didn’t have a paper bag with a handle she could use so she made her own strip to wind up using the paper bag itself! Great tip Colleen! You earned a ballot for the draw for that one. :)

Don’t they look awesome?!

~Tara~

Mini Album in an Envelope

By Jen Walker

I am going to show you how to make a quick mini album in an envelope. You can make it very simple or embellish it.

To get started, you will need:

  • 1 sheets of 12×12 cardstock for the envelope
  • 1 or more sheets of cardstock for the mini album
  • (1)a stapler or (2)hole punch and ribbon or (3) needle and embroidery floss
  • a small sticker or embellishment (about 2×2 or smaller)

Choose which cardstock will be for the envelope.

Here is a template that gives you an idea of the cuts and folds we will be making to create the envelope.



The cardstock to be used for the envelope needs to be creased every 4 inches in both directions with the folds going towards the inside (wrong side) of the envelope. The red will be the outside of the envelope.

Once you have all the folds done, you need to remove the corner pieces.


Next you will need to make the page into an envelope. To do this, there are a few cuts you need to make.

Before you start to make these cuts, be sure to lightly label one flap as A so that you are sure you are making the cuts in the correct places.

The first cut is to flap D. You need to remove 1/2 inch off the edge so that when you fold it inside the envelope it still closes flat.

The next cut is to flap E to make the closure for the envelope. Cut 2 inches off the flap and then mark the centre point of the remaining rectangle. Draw a line to the corner of that flap to create a triangle.


On flap A, you will now need to create a slit for the triangle on flap E to tuck into. Flip the cardstock over and fold A down and E up.

About 1 inch up from the bottom edge of flap A, you will want to mark a point on either side of flap E to show where you will need to cut a slit. The slit should be about 1/4 inch wider than the flap E at both sides. Draw a line and then cut the slit.

This is where the flap E will tuck into for closing the envelope


You will now need to cut a piece of cardstock to 3.5x.3.5 inches. This piece will be adhered to flap A to hide the slit and flap E when it is closed.

When you attach this piece, be sure not to put the adhesive all the way around or you will not be able to tuck in flap E for closure.


Once you have adhered this piece, decorate it. This will be the cover of your envelope.

This is a good time to decorate the other side of the envelope as well (flap C) if you are going to use brads or eyelets or anything else that goes through the cardstock.


Here is the other side of the envelope. The picture turned out terrible. Sorry.



You are now ready to create the mini album. The pages of the mini album at 3.5×7 inches. You can use up to about 6 pages for your mini album, but if you put more than that, the envelope will be a struggle to keep closed.


I chose to secure the album using staples. You can also use a hole punch on the edge with a ribbon tie, or you can hand stitch the pages together to make the album.


The mini album will now be attached to the inside of flap C.

Your envelope is now completed. You can close it by folding flap D, then B, then A and tucking E under the hiding cardstock.

Felt Mini Album

You will need:

  • 1 piece of felt (more if you would like to use some to embellish your album)
  • A double sleeve photo album
  • Sewing machine
  • Embroidery floss
  • Pattern paper, embellishments, buttons etc.
  • Photos

Step One:

You will need to cut a few pages out of your photo album. It won’t ruin your album if you just cut them out with your exacto knife. I used three and I find that it worked really well. You can add more if you wish. It’s really important that the pages of your photo album look like this with one photo sleeve on top and one on the bottom, because you will fold it over to make your album. These photo sleeves will become the page protectors for your album.

Further explanation: You need to take a few pages from a photo album (The ones where you slip the photos into the plastic sleeves) to use as the page protectors for your album. I think you can pick these little photo albums up at the dollar store if you don’t want to cut one out of one of your albums. I just had one on hand so I took a few pages out of it. Just using your exacto knife you just cut the pages out the same way you would if you were taking a page out of a magazine, just an example.

Step Two:

Lay your page protectors over a piece of felt. Leaving about 1cm of an edge around your entire page protector sheet. Trace and cut.

Step Three:

Secure the felt and page protectors together with paper clips. This will keep your album from moving around while you sew it.

Step Four:

Using a sewing machine, sew a straight line down the spine of your book. I went over mine a couple of times for extra support.

Step Five:

Trim off any stray threads. Now your book is ready to embellish any way you wish. This is the fun part!!

I chose to stitch around the edge of my book by hand, just to give the edge a more finished look.

Then I cut a circle from felt using a different color. I attached it with a little bit of adhesive (to hold it still) Then I hand stitched around the circle.

The rhinestone monogram I used is an iron on.

Now you can fill your book! Either with just photos, or by making 4×6 size layouts.

By Melissa

*Originally posted January 2007